Faux Gras ~ Chicken Liver Pate

I've been keepin' it French, lately, making a lot of chicken liver pate. Over the last few months, I've been a chef-consultant to a wine bar in Venice Beach, and have been 'turning out' terrines and little glass jars of pate, rillette and mousse, every week. It's my dream come to life: to be paid to whip butter, cream and flavorful meats with their own fats into rich, creamy spreads. To be smeared on warm toast, or baguette, and eaten with pickled onions, mustards, cornichons... tres jolie... I do believe there is a revival of this old classic.

Since foie gras fell from its famed perch, last year, chicken liver has become the penultimate substitute. When the California foie gras law went into effect, prohibiting the farming practice and sale of foie gras in California, chefs scrambled for the next best thing: chicken liver.

The foie law, as I like to call it, was passed in 2004 by the Governator, Arnold, ironically, someone who gets pretty 'pumped up' over a good slab of foie gras... The law granted an eight year period for farmers to develop healthy feeding practices, before it would be enacted. Unfortunately, the farmers have yet to develop the right technique for California's approval, and the law went into effect last July.

Hence the chicken liver revival! You can look at it as a desperate situation, or a 'thank god for classics'. I'm personally thanking the French.

And thankfully, chefs have been putting 'Julia's' classic recipe on menus from Los Angeles to Napa. In fact, my favorite happy hour, FIG, in Santa Monica, offers the most lovely, potted chicken liver parfait with fig jam, this side of France, mastered by Eric @ericsstash, of course.

So, "get to the choppa!", as Arnold would lamely say, and let's get this revival in full swing!

But please, don't share any with Arnold.

Chicken Liver 'Faux Gras' Pate

say that 5 times...

2# organic chicken livers

1# unsalted butter (soft)

a couple of shallots

a cup of chicken stock

a cup of white or red wine

fresh thyme and bay leaf

a splash of spirits: cognac, maidera, sherry, or my crazy concoction of vermouth and blackcurrant...

salt and white pepper to taste (make it taste good!)

Have fun...

plump and rosey, the livers are organic and from (as a friend of mine likes to say) Whole "Paycheck"...

you will need to trim the fat and sinew with a pair of kitchen shears, or with a knife and a cutting board...

this is what you want...

in a large pot, or skillet, add your sliced shallots, thyme and bay leaf...

add your plump livers...

pour in the wine and chicken stock, and poach for 12-15 minutes...

livers are high in iron, vitamins A and B12, and high in folate; promoting healthy eyes, hair and skin... don't listen to the nay sayers... our ancestors got us here... didn't they???

they also promote great wine pairings...

strain the cooking liquid, remove the herbs, and puree the livers and shallots in a food processor until relatively smooth...

and make a collar to secure your mixing bowl...

push though a fine meshed sieve...

i won't lie, it takes a long-ass time...

once finished, mix with the softened butter...

and season away!

this unusual combination happened by default, like most great things in life: you just can't plan it...

grease your beautiful French terrine...

and line with plastic film...

and grease the plastic film... you do not want a stuck pate...

fill your terrine and spread evenly... and chill over night... and turn out onto a long board or plate...

and with a sharp, thin knife... warm the blade in hot water... wipe dry... and in one careful motion... slice the terrine, steady, not to break it's delicate surface...

and serve with pickles, mustard, jam, salad vinaigrette... whatever stirs your fancy...

tres jolie...

Beet It ~ Beets Cooked In Their Own Earthy Sweetness...

All you need is... Well, that song may ring true in theory, but we also need to eat. And before we can eat, we should learn how to cook. I strongly suggest learning to cook vegetables that are in season and for two reasons: firstly, they are darned good, and secondly, it's easy.


BTW, love is not enough. You have to be redemptive, as well. Oh, sorry, that's another blog... 

And I know you'd be a year richer for every cent paid each time your grandmother or some cooking school graduate assured you that home cooking was easy. Well, they were right. What they didn't tell you is that no one wants to do dishes: because cooking can be a serious mess. That simple truth is why people subject themselves to Applebee's E. coli, and Subway's subsidized sandwiches. But I am here to assure you, once again, just how simple and relatively mess free cooking can be. And how rewarding and nutritious it is to learn how to cook for yourself.

Let's start with beets. Beets live an entire existence underground, soaking up nutrients and minerals that will flood your vital organs with life energy. That is the major point of eating: absorbing life energy. But let's be honest, no one really cares about the life energy of food until they've run out of it. People are interested in taste and beauty. So, why not start there? Beets are the Jimmy Choo's of the vegetable universe, they are gorgeous in color and sexy in texture. And, unlike Jimmy Choo's, dirt cheap. A fun trip to your local farmers market and you can have four or five organic bulbs for just two bucks. You'll just need a few things to get started.

1) parchment paper or aluminum foil
2) a baking sheet
3) paper towels
4) some kitchen basics: olive oil, honey, fresh herbs (if you have them) and salt and pepper

And I suppose, an oven. But I am guessing most of you have one.

So, here it is, a step-by-step, Jimmy Choo pun intended, of how to cook delicious, beautiful, simple beets.

Beets Cooked In Their Own Earthy Sweetness

have fun and choose a variety of beets in different colors at your local farmers market...



in a large bowl or basin, flood the beets with water and let soak for five minutes until the dirt has settled to the bottom, then scoop them out and pat them dry...

find your parchment paper, or foil, and a sheet pan...

trim the tops and tails of the beets and place them in the center of the parchment paper, on the sheet pan...

drizzle with olive oil and honey, salt and pepper, and dress with thyme and bay leaf, if you have some...

unless you would like them tie-died... cook each color of beet in its own parchment paper... 

and wrap them like a present, twisting the ends together to seal in the moisture...

bake @ 350 degrees for close to an hour, depending on the size of your beets...

 a pairing knife should slip through the flesh easily, when done...

the sweet beet juices make an incredible dressing for a salad... save it...

careful, opening the pouch... steam burns...

and gently wipe them clean with lots of paper towels... the skins should slip off easily...

it's messy and takes a little time, but...

your fingers will have evidence of your cooking... bragging rights...

slice, dice, quarter, any way you like, and toss with salad greens, or just a simple dressing of beet juices, red wine vinegar, lemon and olive oil...

i love fresh tarragon with mine, and crumbled French feta... and lots of it...

sweet little things... maybe, all we need is... xo.

Where's Waldorf? ~ The Inspired Waldorf Salad

While my San Diego BFF is texting me pictures of tacos from Los Panchos that would blow your mind, I am cooking like a happy little housewife from 1965. Go figure. I'm making a glorious version of Waldorf Salad. An American classic that certainly belongs to its own generation, but one that has never left our culinary conscience. A weird little salad, it has been waiting for its big second coming of apples, celery, and walnuts, tossed in mayo, and scooped onto a leaf of butter lettuce. I think my reference for Waldorf as a 'weird little salad' is dead on. 

Where on earth did this chunky, creamy salad come from? A genius by the name of Oscar Tschirky, no doubt, emulating the salads of European cuisine. Apparently, Tschirky, the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf Hotel, back in the 1890's, created all kinds of interesting dishes for which he was well known. He even wrote a cookbook titled--The Cookbook, by 'Oscar of the Waldorf'. I would love to get my hands on that gem.

And what's surprising to me is just how popular this weird little salad was and for how long it was on menus, everywhere. I guess anything goes... Cole Porter put it in his famous song "You're the Top"; and John Cleese wrote an episode of Faulty Towers titled, 'Waldorf Salad', with his hilarious line: "sorry, we are all out of Waldorfs". Not knowing what a Waldorf was...

This salad had so much steam it even made it to my house, back in 1970-something. It was determined to stay and I was determined to avoid it; and remains for me still, a complete mystery how those three ingredients, and the occasional green grape, with a mess of mayo, became so desirable. 

But it's here, in Hollywood, in San Francisco, and New York. I've seen versions of the Waldorf and even have my own. But it's much better now, dressed in buttermilk, yogurt, creme fraiche, what have you; with a more balanced richness and sweetness than the original. None of that heavy, store-bought mayo. And I suppose today's versions are not so original after all, including all kinds of ingredients, but keeping its spirit in mind. 25 Degrees, in Hollywood, has its own Waldorf: a chopped salad of grapes, golden beets, pine nuts, avocados and white beans, with a creamy parmesan dressing. Believe me, it's damn good.

So, this week, I was reminded of Oscar and his Waldorf when I had a farmers market shopping bag full of purple brussell sprouts, walnuts, and little Pink Lady apples. A knob of ginger, a scratch of nutmeg, and some Mexican crema, and I was in a Waldorf state of mind. 

Make this version, or make your own, but give it a shot. And don't forget to call your grandmother.

Here he is... 

The Inspired "Waldorf " Salad 

Brussell Sprout Apple salad with Walnuts and Ginger Crema

~

12 brussell sprouts

one small apple

a palmful of walnuts

a coin of fresh ginger

2 tbs crema

2 tbs cider vinegar

1 tsp honey

1 tsp olive oil

1 tsp salt

cracked black pepper

scratch of nutmeg

purple or green brussells will do...                                                                          

wash them, dry them...

trim the tails, and separate the outer leaves, until you get to the heart of it...

thinly slice the hearts...

lovely apples ; )

slice your apple thin and matchstick the slices... careful...

slice  a coin of ginger and trim its skin away, matchstick your coin, then dice very small...

combine 2 tbs of crema, with 2 tbs cider vinegar, 1 tbs olive oil, 1 tsp honey, 1 tsp salt, a crack of black pepper, a scratch of nutmeg and the diced ginger root... 

combine the dressing... taste for seasoning...

rough chop a palmful of walnuts, and toast in a hot pan with 2 tbs of olive oil... 

add a spring of thyme, whatever you have...

fry some bread in olive oil...

toss your gorgeous handy-work with the dressing...

and love...

your lunch... XX 

heart...

A very simple warm salad of broccoli and poached egg

Broccoli. Quite possibly the first vegetable I pushed away on my dinner plate. No matter how many times my dear brother tried to convince me that 'little trees' were so good, I was not having any of it. Besides, he would eat anything, compared to me: the picky four year old sister.

My brother was right after all. I eventually fell for the green-stuff and even grew up to cook and eat broccoli, and all of its green cousins, regularly. Not to mention the irony that I grew up to be a chef and cook and eat everything regularly. The truth is, we mostly like what we are exposed to, with some exception. While I happily ate little foil packages of blue cheese with my dad, and requested mom's steak and kidney pie for dinner, I had reservations about the 'green-stuff', mayonnaise, ketchup on my burger... All of which I enjoy now. But everyday is a chance to discover something new. Even for us so-called grownups.

And often, something new is just a matter of uniting what you love. Take for instance a poached egg and broccoli. While poached eggs are falling into soups and onto dinner menus everywhere, broccoli has found many reincarnations outside of playing the role of the simple side-dish. So, why not just the two of them? With some help from a few fingerling potatoes, you can have a lovely warm salad of broccoli and poached egg with a lemon vinaigrette, for lunch or dinner. I was so hungry today, that that's exactly what happened. In fact, with each photograph my stomach growled so much so, I hardly cared about the pictures at all... I apologize, and promise not to be so hungry next time.

Anyway, it was delicious.

And a very happy new year to all of you. XO

Warm Salad of Broccoli and Poached Egg with Fingerling Potatoes Vinaigrette

this head of broccoli was just $2.00 at the farmers market...

separate the leaves from the head and quarter the head

I like to pull the quarters apart by hand for a more natural look...

cook your broccoli florets first... then cook your broccoli leaves next...

making sure the water is a salty sea of boiling water

put aside, stove top

don't waste your salty sea of hot water...

add your washed and sliced fingerlings, a clove of garlic, and cook until just done

step stool view

crack your egg into a small bowl and...

squeeze the half of a lemon into your pan of simmering water

slide the egg quickly into the simmering pan of water, 

the water should bubble up like a glass of champagne

release the egg with a spoon if it nests too long on the bottom,

remove with a slotted spoon when the whites have set and the yolk is still very soft,

drain on a cloth...

whisk your remaining lemon half and olive oil and salt and black pepper 

and dill, if you have some

on a warm plate, dress your broccoli and potatoes with the lemon vinaigrette and top with a steamy egg

done