Thursday, January 10, 2013

Where's Waldorf? ~ The Inspired Waldorf Salad

While my San Diego BFF is texting me pictures of tacos from Los Panchos that would blow your mind, I am cooking like a happy little housewife from 1965. Go figure. I'm making a glorious version of Waldorf Salad. An American classic that certainly belongs to its own generation, but one that has never left our culinary conscience. A weird little salad, it has been waiting for its big second coming of apples, celery, and walnuts, tossed in mayo, and scooped onto a leaf of butter lettuce. I think my reference for Waldorf as a 'weird little salad' is dead on. 

Where on earth did this chunky, creamy salad come from? A genius by the name of Oscar Tschirky, no doubt, emulating the salads of European cuisine. Apparently, Tschirky, the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf Hotel, back in the 1890's, created all kinds of interesting dishes for which he was well known. He even wrote a cookbook titled--The Cookbook, by 'Oscar of the Waldorf'. I would love to get my hands on that gem.

And what's surprising to me is just how popular this weird little salad was and for how long it was on menus, everywhere. I guess anything goes... Cole Porter put it in his famous song "You're the Top"; and John Cleese wrote an episode of Faulty Towers titled, 'Waldorf Salad', with his hilarious line: "sorry, we are all out of Waldorfs". Not knowing what a Waldorf was...

This salad had so much steam it even made it to my house, back in 1970-something. It was determined to stay and I was determined to avoid it; and remains for me still, a complete mystery how those three ingredients, and the occasional green grape, with a mess of mayo, became so desirable. 

But it's here, in Hollywood, in San Francisco, and New York. I've seen versions of the Waldorf and even have my own. But it's much better now, dressed in buttermilk, yogurt, creme fraiche, what have you; with a more balanced richness and sweetness than the original. None of that heavy, store-bought mayo. And I suppose today's versions are not so original after all, including all kinds of ingredients, but keeping its spirit in mind. 25 Degrees, in Hollywood, has its own Waldorf: a chopped salad of grapes, golden beets, pine nuts, avocados and white beans, with a creamy parmesan dressing. Believe me, it's damn good.

So, this week, I was reminded of Oscar and his Waldorf when I had a farmers market shopping bag full of purple brussell sprouts, walnuts, and little Pink Lady apples. A knob of ginger, a scratch of nutmeg, and some Mexican crema, and I was in a Waldorf state of mind. 

Make this version, or make your own, but give it a shot. And don't forget to call your grandmother.

Here he is... 


The Inspired "Waldorf " Salad 
Brussell Sprout Apple salad with Walnuts and Ginger Crema

~
12 brussell sprouts
one small apple
a palmful of walnuts
a coin of fresh ginger
2 tbs crema
2 tbs cider vinegar
1 tsp honey
1 tsp olive oil
1 tsp salt
cracked black pepper
scratch of nutmeg

purple or green brussells will do...                                                                          


wash them, dry them...


trim the tails, and separate the outer leaves, until you get to the heart of it...


thinly slice the hearts...




lovely apples ; )


slice your apple thin and matchstick the slices... careful...


slice  a coin of ginger and trim its skin away, matchstick your coin, then dice very small...


combine 2 tbs of crema, with 2 tbs cider vinegar, 1 tbs olive oil, 1 tsp honey, 1 tsp salt, a crack of black pepper, a scratch of nutmeg and the diced ginger root... 

combine the dressing... taste for seasoning...


rough chop a palmful of walnuts, and toast in a hot pan with 2 tbs of olive oil... 

add a spring of thyme, whatever you have...


fry some bread in olive oil...



toss your gorgeous handy-work with the dressing...


and love...


your lunch... XX 


heart...

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