Thursday, January 10, 2013

Where's Waldorf? ~ The Inspired Waldorf Salad

While my San Diego BFF is texting me pictures of tacos from Los Panchos that would blow your mind, I am cooking like a happy little housewife from 1965. Go figure. I'm making a glorious version of Waldorf Salad. An American classic that certainly belongs to its own generation, but one that has never left our culinary conscience. A weird little salad, it has been waiting for its big second coming of apples, celery, and walnuts, tossed in mayo, and scooped onto a leaf of butter lettuce. I think my reference for Waldorf as a 'weird little salad' is dead on. 

Where on earth did this chunky, creamy salad come from? A genius by the name of Oscar Tschirky, no doubt, emulating the salads of European cuisine. Apparently, Tschirky, the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf Hotel, back in the 1890's, created all kinds of interesting dishes for which he was well known. He even wrote a cookbook titled--The Cookbook, by 'Oscar of the Waldorf'. I would love to get my hands on that gem.

And what's surprising to me is just how popular this weird little salad was and for how long it was on menus, everywhere. I guess anything goes... Cole Porter put it in his famous song "You're the Top"; and John Cleese wrote an episode of Faulty Towers titled, 'Waldorf Salad', with his hilarious line: "sorry, we are all out of Waldorfs". Not knowing what a Waldorf was...

This salad had so much steam it even made it to my house, back in 1970-something. It was determined to stay and I was determined to avoid it; and remains for me still, a complete mystery how those three ingredients, and the occasional green grape, with a mess of mayo, became so desirable. 

But it's here, in Hollywood, in San Francisco, and New York. I've seen versions of the Waldorf and even have my own. But it's much better now, dressed in buttermilk, yogurt, creme fraiche, what have you; with a more balanced richness and sweetness than the original. None of that heavy, store-bought mayo. And I suppose today's versions are not so original after all, including all kinds of ingredients, but keeping its spirit in mind. 25 Degrees, in Hollywood, has its own Waldorf: a chopped salad of grapes, golden beets, pine nuts, avocados and white beans, with a creamy parmesan dressing. Believe me, it's damn good.

So, this week, I was reminded of Oscar and his Waldorf when I had a farmers market shopping bag full of purple brussell sprouts, walnuts, and little Pink Lady apples. A knob of ginger, a scratch of nutmeg, and some Mexican crema, and I was in a Waldorf state of mind. 

Make this version, or make your own, but give it a shot. And don't forget to call your grandmother.

Here he is... 


The Inspired "Waldorf " Salad 
Brussell Sprout Apple salad with Walnuts and Ginger Crema

~
12 brussell sprouts
one small apple
a palmful of walnuts
a coin of fresh ginger
2 tbs crema
2 tbs cider vinegar
1 tsp honey
1 tsp olive oil
1 tsp salt
cracked black pepper
scratch of nutmeg

purple or green brussells will do...                                                                          


wash them, dry them...


trim the tails, and separate the outer leaves, until you get to the heart of it...


thinly slice the hearts...




lovely apples ; )


slice your apple thin and matchstick the slices... careful...


slice  a coin of ginger and trim its skin away, matchstick your coin, then dice very small...


combine 2 tbs of crema, with 2 tbs cider vinegar, 1 tbs olive oil, 1 tsp honey, 1 tsp salt, a crack of black pepper, a scratch of nutmeg and the diced ginger root... 

combine the dressing... taste for seasoning...


rough chop a palmful of walnuts, and toast in a hot pan with 2 tbs of olive oil... 

add a spring of thyme, whatever you have...


fry some bread in olive oil...



toss your gorgeous handy-work with the dressing...


and love...


your lunch... XX 


heart...

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

A very simple warm salad of broccoli and poached egg

Broccoli. Quite possibly the first vegetable I pushed away on my dinner plate. No matter how many times my dear brother tried to convince me that 'little trees' were so good, I was not having any of it. Besides, he would eat anything, compared to me: the picky four year old sister.

My brother was right after all. I eventually fell for the green-stuff and even grew up to cook and eat broccoli, and all of its green cousins, regularly. Not to mention the irony that I grew up to be a chef and cook and eat everything regularly. The truth is, we mostly like what we are exposed to, with some exception. While I happily ate little foil packages of blue cheese with my dad, and requested mom's steak and kidney pie for dinner, I had reservations about the 'green-stuff', mayonnaise, ketchup on my burger... All of which I enjoy now. But everyday is a chance to discover something new. Even for us so-called grownups.

And often, something new is just a matter of uniting what you love. Take for instance a poached egg and broccoli. While poached eggs are falling into soups and onto dinner menus everywhere, broccoli has found many reincarnations outside of playing the role of the simple side-dish. So, why not just the two of them? With some help from a few fingerling potatoes, you can have a lovely warm salad of broccoli and poached egg with a lemon vinaigrette, for lunch or dinner. I was so hungry today, that that's exactly what happened. In fact, with each photograph my stomach growled so much so, I hardly cared about the pictures at all... I apologize, and promise not to be so hungry next time.

Anyway, it was delicious.

And a very happy new year to all of you. XO





Warm Salad of Broccoli and Poached Egg with Fingerling Potatoes Vinaigrette

this head of broccoli was just $2.00 at the farmers market...


separate the leaves from the head and quarter the head

I like to pull the quarters apart by hand for a more natural look...


cook your broccoli florets first... then cook your broccoli leaves next...

making sure the water is a salty sea of boiling water


put aside, stove top


don't waste your salty sea of hot water...

add your washed and sliced fingerlings, a clove of garlic, and cook until just done


step stool view


crack your egg into a small bowl and...

squeeze the half of a lemon into your pan of simmering water



slide the egg quickly into the simmering pan of water, 

the water should bubble up like a glass of champagne


release the egg with a spoon if it nests too long on the bottom,

remove with a slotted spoon when the whites have set and the yolk is still very soft,

drain on a cloth...


whisk your remaining lemon half and olive oil and salt and black pepper 


and dill, if you have some


on a warm plate, dress your broccoli and potatoes with the lemon vinaigrette and top with a steamy egg


done